Buffalo, N.Y. · Wings since 1964

Never Ranch.

Rule number one is what?
Blue cheese.

Wings were born in Buffalo. The rest of the country has been dipping them in the wrong thing ever since. This is the standard: what a wing is, how to eat one, and the Code every wing eater lives by.

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The Dip Test

Drag anything from the basket into a dip. Try the ranch. We dare you.

Pick a wing, a fry or a veggie and drag it into a dip.

0Code-compliant
0Ranch attempts

Keyboard: press an item in the basket to pick it up, then press a dip to dunk it.

Wings 101

What a wing actually is

Everybody serves wings now. Most of them are wrong. Here's the real thing, the way Buffalo has made it since the 1960s.

wing/wɪŋ/ · noun · Buffalo usage
  1. A chicken wing, cut into a flat and a drum, fried naked until crispy, tossed in hot sauce and butter, and served with blue cheese and celery.
  2. Not a nugget. See Article IX.

Usage: “Twenty wings, medium, extra crispy. Extra blue cheese.” Nobody in Buffalo says “Buffalo wings.” They're just wings.

Crispy

The skin is the crust. Wings are fried with no breading, no batter and no flour, until the fat renders out and the skin crackles. A good wing crunches through the sauce instead of going limp under it.

Balanced

The sauce is two things: vinegary cayenne hot sauce and melted butter. The hot sauce brings tang and heat. The butter rounds it off and makes it cling. A good wing tastes like chicken first and heat second.

Blue cheese

Cold, chunky, funky blue cheese dressing. It cools the heat, its tang cuts the butter, and it's been the dip from day one. Celery and carrots come along to cool you down and to scoop.

Anatomy of a wing

A whole wing has three parts. Two of them get eaten.

A whole chicken wing cut at its two joints into three parts: the drum with one bone, the flat with two bones, and the tip, which goes to the stock pot. CUT CUT DRUM 1 bone a.k.a. drumette FLAT 2 bones a.k.a. wingette TIP off to the stock pot

How a real wing gets made

Four steps. None of them involve an oven or a bag of breadcrumbs.

  1. Cut

    Split the whole wing at the joints into a drum and a flat. The tip comes off and goes to the stock pot.

  2. Fry

    Straight into hot oil, naked. Around 10 to 12 minutes at 375°F, until the skin is deep golden and crackling.

  3. Toss

    From the fryer into a bowl of hot sauce and melted butter. Toss until every wing is coated. No brushing, no drizzling.

  4. Serve

    Blue cheese, celery, carrots and a stack of napkins taller than the basket.

The heat scale
Medium
Hot sauce 50%Butter 50%

Ratios are a rough guide. Every kitchen guards its own, and most add extra cayenne or hotter peppers once you go past Hot.

Order like a local

“Extra crispy”
Fried a little longer for more crunch. Say it out loud, with confidence. Any decent place will do it.
“Extra blue cheese”
Always. One cup is never enough, and running out mid-basket is a tragedy.
“Flats only” / “Drums only”
Allowed. A lot of places charge a little extra. Pick a side (see below).
“Sauce on the side”
For takeout with a long drive. Toss them yourself at home so they stay crispy.
10 · 20 · 50
Wings come by the count. Ten is a snack for one. Nobody orders six.
“Pizza and wings”
Friday night, game day, any day. The city's unofficial combo meal.

Where wings came from

  1. 1961

    John Young starts serving whole, breaded wings in his tomato-based mumbo sauce. He always said he was first, and in 2013 he was inducted into the National Buffalo Wing Hall of Flame.

  2. 1964

    At the Anchor Bar, Teressa Bellissimo fries wings and tosses them in hot sauce. The family tells it three ways: a late-night snack for her son Dominic's friends, a Friday-night treat for Catholic regulars, or a fix for a delivery of wings that should have been backs and necks.

  3. 1969

    Duff's starts selling wings. Buffalo has argued about who does them better ever since.

  4. 1977July 29

    The City of Buffalo declares Chicken Wing Day.

  5. Today

    Ranch is the most popular wing dip in America. That's why this site exists.

The great divide

Flats vs. drums

Same wing, two very different experiences, and two very different kinds of people. Both are protected under Article VIII. Neither side will ever admit the other has a point.

The Flat

a.k.a. the wingette
Two bones
FlatRated out of 5Drum

Ratings by the Never Ranch Wing Council. Not up for debate. (Everything is up for debate.)

The Drum

a.k.a. the drumette
One bone
You might be a

Flat Person

  • You're patient. You'll work for something good.
  • You read the whole menu, including the back.
  • You care about texture and you might say “mouthfeel” out loud.
  • You can pull both bones clean, and you want the table to see you do it.
  • You'll negotiate for the last flat like it's a contract.
  • You order extra crispy every single time.

Natural habitat: corner booth, sauce on the side, napkins folded.

You might be a

Drum Person

  • You're a straight shooter. No fuss.
  • You hold a wing like a microphone and talk with it.
  • You want the most meat for the least work.
  • You order “the usual” and you mean it.
  • You've finished eight drums while the flat people are on their third.
  • You'd trade two flats for one drum and call it a win.

Natural habitat: standing at the bar, game on, one hand free for a high five.

Like both equally?You're a Diplomat. You eat whatever's left, keep the peace, and you're quietly the happiest person at the table.

Which one are you?

Five questions. No wrong answers. Except ranch.

    Technique

    How to eat a flat

    Two bones, three ways to get the meat off. Pick one and practice. Do it clean once in front of your friends and you'll never pay for a beer again.

    X-ray view: bones shown through the meatStep 1 of 6

    Two bones out, one boneless bite left behind. The showpiece.

    For traditionalists

    The corn cob

    Hold the flat by both ends and eat it like corn on the cob, side to side. Then go between the bones for the good stuff. Slower, messier, and nobody will judge you.

    For drum people

    How to eat a drum

    Hold the skinny end like a microphone. Rotate while eating. That's the whole thing. Drums were designed for people with somewhere to be.

    For everyone

    Where the bones go

    In the bone bowl. Not back in the basket, not on the edge of the table and never on someone else's plate. See Article XII.

    The standard

    The Buffalo Wing Code

    Twelve articles. Binding wherever wings are served. Read them, live them, and quote them to the next person who asks for ranch.

    Adopted by the Never Ranch Wing Council

    The Buffalo Wing Code

    Being the rules, customs and plain common sense governing the chicken wing, as practiced in the city that invented it.

    1. Article I

      Blue cheese. Always.

      The dip is blue cheese. It has always been blue cheese.

      • Ranch shall not be ordered, offered, requested, or kept within arm's reach of a wing.
      • Chunky is preferred.
      • If a server asks “ranch or blue cheese?”, the correct answer is blue cheese, and the question may be forgiven once.
    2. Article II

      They're called wings.

      In Buffalo, “Buffalo wings” is redundant. Just say “wings.”

    3. Article III

      Naked or nothing.

      No breading, no batter, no flour dredge. The skin is the crust.

    4. Article IV

      Crispy is mandatory.

      Order them crispy or extra crispy and feel no shame. A soggy wing is a violation no matter how good the sauce is.

    5. Article V

      Fried, then tossed.

      Sauce goes on after the fryer, in a bowl, with a toss. Never brushed, never drizzled, never poured on from across the room.

    6. Article VI

      Balance over burn.

      Hot sauce and butter, in proportion. Heat is a seasoning, not a dare. If you can't taste the chicken, the sauce won.

    7. Article VII

      Celery is a utensil.

      It cools, it crunches and it scoops blue cheese.

      • Carrots are permitted under the Carrot Compromise.
    8. Article VIII

      Flats and drums are equal.

      Your preference is protected. Taking the last flat without asking is not.

    9. Article IX

      Boneless wings are not wings.

      They're pieces of breaded breast meat: chicken nuggets in a costume. Eat them if you have to. Just don't call them wings inside city limits.

    10. Article X

      No double-dipping.

      In a shared cup of blue cheese, you dip once per bite. If the cup is yours alone, do as you please.

    11. Article XI

      Nobody orders six.

      Wings come by the ten. Ordering six is ordering a snack, and that's not what we're doing here.

    12. Article XII

      Bones go in the bone bowl.

      Not back in the basket, not on the table and never on someone else's plate.

    Schedule of penalties

    Article I
    You'll be called “Ranch” for the rest of the night.
    Article III
    Your wings will be referred to as “chicken tenders with ambition.”
    Article VIII
    You owe the table a flat.
    Article IX
    You're buying the next round.
    Article XI
    Twenty. You meant twenty.
    Repeat offenders
    Referred to somebody's uncle for a talk in the driveway.
    Never Ranch Wing Council · Buffalo, N.Y.Signed, every wing eater with taste
    The test

    Buffalo Wing Citizenship Test

    Ten questions. Pass and you're one of us. Fail and you're a Ranch Tourist, which is still allowed. Your ranch just has to wait outside.

    Question 1 of 10Score 0

    Your server asks, “Ranch or blue cheese?” You say:

    0–3 Ranch Tourist4–5 Transplant6–7 Townie8–9 Born in a Snowbank10 Wing Council
    Make it official

    Take the oath

    Swear it, get your certificate, screenshot it and post it. Then tag the ranch person in your life.

    I, your name, do solemnly swear to dip in blue cheese, to order my wings crispy, to respect the flat and the drum alike, to never call a nugget a wing, to put my bones in the bone bowl, and to never, ever, ranch.

    Never Ranch Wing Council
    Certified
    Never Ranch

    This certifies that

    Your name here

    has sworn the Oath of Blue Cheese and shall uphold the Buffalo Wing Code wherever wings are served.

    RankTake the test
    SideTake the quiz
    Cert. no.NR-716-0000

    Example certificate. Fill in your name to make it yours.

    Now open

    Wear the Code

    Shirts for people who live by one rule. Rule number one is what? Blue cheese.

    From $50

    Royal blue, white lettering and a red swoop through the ranch. Built for December in Orchard Park.

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    NEVER RANCH. That's it. That's the hoodie.

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    Keeps the sun out of your eyes and the ranch out of your life.

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    The seal from your certificate, worn over your heart.

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    Big, simple, impossible to misread from across the bar.

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    RULE #1 IS WHAT? on the front. BLUE CHEESE. on the back.

    From $30

    One bone. No fuss.

    From $30

    Two bones. Zero shortcuts.

    From $30

    Article VII of the Buffalo Wing Code: celery is a utensil.

    From $30

    Royal blue, white lettering and a red swoop through the ranch. Built for Sundays in Orchard Park.